The Desert Traveller

The Journey has only just Started and will never End.

Wecome to my first blog, fired up like an old BSA, and dribbling oil already.The date is 10th January 2009.
I would like to share with you some of my journeys and adventures of the last 30 years, but more importantly, my last few years of riding, in Morocco and Maurintia, and then in 2008, my solo trip through Spain, Morocco, Maurintia, Senegal to the southern most village in The Gambia, and back.
Also, to record the planning and adventures of a journey that will take Tony, a biking friend and neighbour, and myself, through France, Italy, Greece, Turkey, Iran, Pakistan to the Himalayas in India.

Where it began.

My first trip to Europe was in 1974, on a 850cc Norton Commando, with two mates, also on Commandos, Bob on a 750cc and Keith on a 850cc. Keith took Linda his wife, Bob rode solo and I took another mate, Sammy, who was intending to go on his 650 Triumph Trophy, but failed to get it rebuilt in time. A four week trip took us to the South of France, Italy and Switzerland. Bob had an aurgument with a armco barrier in the Swiss Alps, and bent his Commando, which we managed to get repaired, and he headed back early with Keith and Linda, whilst Sammy and I headed on through Germany and Luxemburg, back through France and home.

This was the start of my love for riding in Europe, and the mountains in particular.

Two days after returning home, after the trouble free trip abroad, the Commando spat me off on the M5, when the front end set me into a tank slapper at full throttle while overtaking a Suzuki 550 tripple.

I managed to ride the Commando off the M5 and sold it the next day to the dealer I had bought if from new a few months earlier, brand new. I knew I would never be confident on that bike again.

After a short spell on a 650 Triumph Trophy, I bought a new Triumph Trident T150, and after breaking up the piston rings during a rather fast ride I bought a new Triumph Trident T160.

I had a couple of trips to Europe on the T160, almost trouble free, the points messing up on one trip, sorted by fitting some Bonneville points I bought in Austria, and a gentle drop near Cannes in the South of France, that broke the front brake lever, sorted by having a lift into Monaco by a local BMW rider, and buying a lever at the Triumph dealer.

After writing off the T160 in an augument with a car in 1976, and having 22 months off work, I only rode in the UK, on an assortment of bike, including a 350 Matchless and a 650 BSA Spitfire Mk 2. In 1981 I bought an 850 MotoGuzzi California, and started riding in Europe again. Every year, France, Spain, Portugal and Italy were the countries of choice, the mountains the destinations. 3 or 4 weeks were the norm, depending on getting time off work. In 1995 I bought a 1000 MotoGuzzi California, and continued the European trips and a trip to Ireland. Then with a 2000 Triumph Sprint RS, a couple of trips to Assen for the WSB and Moto GP, but continued European trips on the Guzzi until I bought a 1998 900cc Triumph in 2005, and continued the European trips, untill 2006 when I ventured into North Africa.

Countries and Principalities which I have visited on my various bikes: 42 so far.

France, Spain, Andora, Monaco, Portugal, Italy, Switerland, Austria, Luxumburg, Belgium, Germany, Liechtenstein, Czech Republic, Holland, Ireland, Isle of Man, Morocco, Western Sahara, Mauritania, Senegal, Gambia, Greece, Turkey, Iran, Pakistan, India and Nepal. Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador and Colombia, Poland, Ukraine and Slovakia, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia, Montenegro, Serbia, Hungary.

Journey to Morocco 2006

After 30 years of travelling Europe, I decided on a trip to Morocco, and in March 2006, set off on the Triumph Trophy 900 for a three week trip, intending to travel across the Western Sahara. After ridding down through Spain and crossing the Med to Morocco, I rode through the Riff Mountains, The High Atlas Mountains, rode down near to the Algerian Border, and then to the edge of The Western Sahara, at Tan Tan. I had a puncture, got stuck in a sand storm, met some good guys, and some not so good guys, lost over a stone in weight. I never got to travel through the Westen Sahara, but I'll be back.

Trip to Mauritania 2007

In 2007 I returned to Morocco on the 900 Triumph Trophy, this time accompanied by neighbour and fellow bike nut Tony, who rode his KTM 990 Adventurer. We rode through Spain from Santander, crossed the Med to Ceuta, then down the Atlantic Coast, took the 800 mile route through the Western Sahara, and crossed the border into Mauritania. We stayed the night in the nearest town, and headed back the next day, riding back on the same route across the Western Sahara, then rode over the High Atlas Mountains, and then the Riff Mountains. Back in Spain we rode through the Picos De Europa Mountains, before taking the ferry back to Plymouth.

2008 Solo To The Gambia

Planning the 2009 Trip to India.

Objective: To ride the highest road over the Himalayas in India:The Leh Pass.
After riding the Trophy down to The Gambia and back in early 2008, I reliased that I would need a differant model for the ride to India. I found it very difficult on the Trophy, riding on sand and through the bush in Senegal. I considered, for a very brief moment in time, a BMW 1150 / 1200 GS, a Tenerif or Africa Twin, but my heart ruled my head and I went for a Triumph Tiger. I know the 955i engine as I have a Sprint RS, I trust a Triumph , I feel good on a Triumph, and I love the Triple motor. Although the bike is way too high for me, I can get that sorted.

Visas and Stuff

Visas are needed to enter Iran, Pakistan and India, and to save time and traveling costs to Embassys in London, we employed an agencey,Travcour, to get them. Their fees and the visa fees came to about £300 each. We also needed an 'Invitation' from an organisation in Iran, and STANcour arranged this, for a small fee. The visas had to to applied for within set time scales, and our passports were returned with the correct visas a couple of weeks before our planned departure.
Additionly we required a 'Carnet de Passage', a document required to inport and export our bikes through various countries. We procured this through the RAC.
Due to the limited time for our journey, just 6 weeks, we arranged to ship our bikes back by sea, and booked flights back from New Deli.
Travel Insurance, -void in Iran and Pakistan due to the internal unrest, so the insurance company says, -was still needed for the rest of the journey. International Driving Permits, foreign currency, travellers cheques and credit cards were also obtained. Vacinations were painfully taken, Hep A&B, Tetanus/Diphtheria/Polio, and three shots of Rabies Vaccine. I don't bark so much now, but I still slobber.

Modifications to the Tiger

Since picking up the Tiger in January 2009, I have fitted a Hagon Rear Suspension Unit constructed to lower the rear of the bike by 50mm. I can now reach the ground with both feet! Thanks for advice from Rob at Jack Lily Motorcycles on the suspension set up.
I also fitted a Triumph Sprint side stand and a standard centre stand, both from Sprint Manufacturing.
The panniers are the Trax Luggage System and crash bars from Motech. Thanks to Frank at Square Deals for a quick and professional turn round.
I added a relay to the lighting system, and changed the main bulb, increasing the headlight bulb wattage, from 60/55 to 100/80.
I wired up outlets for my heated jacket and heated socks.....hey, it is going to be cold up those mountains! Also fitted heated handle bar grips.
On good advice from Derrick at CMS, I have had fitted new Metzler Tourance tyres and new heavy duty tubes, and have a spare pair of Continental TKC 80 for when the going gets rough.
The Scott Oiler I fitted should protect the chain for the 8,000 odd mile journey.

e mails from the journey 17/07/09

Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 4:41 AM
Subject: The Journey

OK folks, they ain't got us yet.
Through Greece, now in Turkey, no problems at the border, in hotel in Boul on the D100.
Have been riding the M-Ways, as we need to keep up a good average speed while we can.
went into Istanbul yesterday, to the Blue Mosque, interviewed by a local journalist who I reckon thought we were Ewan and Charlie. Apart from keeping an eye open for the traffic, high speed undertaking and tailgating, the riding has been straight forward and almost boring. A section through some mountains with tight bends the best so far. Bikes running well.
Looking forward to Iran, maybe tomorrow.
Best wishes and regards,
John Groves.
The Desert Traveller aboard the Triumph Tiger 955i

e mails from the journey 22/07/09

Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 12:28 PM

Subject: Re: The Journey

At last I have the opportunity to sit down at a desk!

First, thanks to all of you who have sent greetings and best wishes.

We have been in Iran now for 3 days I think, we have lost track of time, but not miles.

The border crossing between Turkey and Iran went well, a fixer got us to the front of a queue of about 300 people in buses, and sorted the passports for us. We then rode to the Iran border post. No fixer, but a police office who took us under his wing, speaking a bit of English, and took us through the whole process, visas, passports, carnet, police finger printing and customs. All very polite and helpful, and thanking us for visiting Iran.

And so into Iran, quite fearful of the reception we would find. At the first town, we were followed by a dozen 125cc motorcycles (max 250 cc by Regulation of Islamic Government of Iran) all shouting hello and welcome and trying to speak to us. Every where it has been the same, the people just do not see any tourists ( I am not a tourist). Every where , they want to speak to us, and help us. Looking for the right road, or a hotel, or petrol station, then will divert from there route and lead us. And they want nothing in return, just to talk. Yesterday, a car driver frantically waved me down. opened his car boot and presented me with a melon, apologising for not speaking good English, inviting us to his home, and again, when we stopped to check the map. a guy in a car, guided us, then showed us a gas station, and when we said we needed to buy water, he bought it, and cans of soft drink and gave it all to us!

The guy that changed Tony's oil, took us out to eat, and the next day his driver showed us some historic sights in his city, so we never left until14.00 hrs which put us behind, but was well worth it.

Today we were headed to the Pakistani border, a 375miles journey across desert and mountain, just skirting the Afghanistan border. Searing heat, well over 40C, and windy.

This road had been described as very dangerous, not to be travelled at night, and not to stop in the day. Several Iranians told us this. So we set off early this morning. But the heat over came Tony and we had to stop beside the road. There were two truck driver sitting in the side of their waggons, eating. They beckoned us over, and gave us melon and bread and cold water (our water was so hot we could have made a cup of tea} I explained Tony was unwell and they gave him a seat and mixed lemon juice and sugar, and cold water for him. And all this from people on the most dangerous road in Iran. Why dangerous? Well, its the main route for H and other stuff, from Afghanistan. It is not controlled by the police or army, real frontier country.

I find it hard to get my head around how friendly everyone is, and how they want to talk to us. Even the women come up to us to speak.

Both bikes are running well.

I have to finnish now as I am meeting an Afgan who lives in Germany, is visiting his uncle here in Zanedan, and speaks good English.

Best wishes and regards,

John Groves.

The Desert Traveller aboard the Triumph Tiger 955i

e mail from the journey. 03/08/09

From: JOHN GROVES
To: amanda@travcour.com; smithandrewk@aol.com; lynnerobertson1@yahoo.co.uk; marketing@bridgemotorcycles.co.uk; David.mitchell4@hotmail.co.uk; ian.radmore@sky.com; jill@roseandcrownsandford.co.uk; j.waringtonsmyth@btinternet.com; office@nicksanders.com; Paul@meritex.co.uk; sue.scott@ameycolas.co.uk; thepearns@talktalk.net
Sent: Monday, 3 August, 2009 9:58:27 AM
Subject:

We have made to India and the Himalaya's! We have been out of touch for over a week. no e mail and phones not working.
My last mail, we were near the Pakistani border, in a town near the Afghan boarder. I was going to meet a man who lived in Germany but he never turned up. Tony was ill and in the hotel in bed I walked in the town,Very different from other towns, the locals very sullen and unfriendly, would not speak and look at me. Many were fighters from Afghan on R&R. I was told. I went back to the hotel. The next day the hotel arranged armed guards to take us to the Iran / Pakistan border. It took all day to cross, and we slept in the open outside the customs post in Pakistan. Tony was still unwell. The next day the start of a long slow journey through Pakistan. We had an armed guard all the way, except for a couple of times when we gave then the slip' when they had no transport, we put my spare tyres on Tony's bike and the guard with an AK 47 rode pillion behind me. The first one was good, warning me of pot holes and deep sand across the road, we were travelling over 500 miles of desert. I nearly came off on one sand bar, after that he made me stop and he walked over it. The second guard shouted Taliban Taliban, every time we passed a dwelling. pointing his gun and telling me to go faster, but after about 20 times of this I just shouted back Annual leave, bike holiday, and so it went on for miles. The third guard fell asleep on the back. We had to buy petrol in the desert from plastic cans. Tony was getting more unwell. Eventually we realised we would not cross the 300 mile desert that day, and we stayed in a police compound. The police took Tony to Hospital, pretty basic, but was given tablets to get his fever down. He was in a bad way. He fell of his bike twice that day. The next day we travelled to Jacobabad, supposed to be the second hottest place in the world, over 50C, we both almost collapsed. The armed guards took us to a hotel. As we recovered, a knock on the door and the Provincial Head of Pakistani State Security and the Head of Police came in. The interviewed us for two hours, about terrorism, religion, the American /British relationship, Afghan, the bloody lot! When we went to the restaurant for supper, the head of police joined us, then two men joined us for a talk, same subjects, they were obviously security as well. Scarey stuff!. We eventually got to the Indian border, which we crossed with little problem, at Wagha, where they have a very strange flag ceremony.
After many miles through India, we arrived in the Mountains. I can not describe the mountains and valleys, the people, just too , too much. Tony's bike started miss firing and we spent one whole day trying to fix it , We had to strip down the fuel pump 3 times, we hope we have fixed it now, I paid 50 rupees to a monk to say prayers for us, to get the bike fixed and for a safe journey. The roads...wow, the driving...well....shear drops, unmade roads , blind bend over taking is the norm. The people are all so friendly, a peasant Buddhist farmer invited us to his home for tea, every one want to talk. We are now in Leh, after going over one pass at 11,000 ft on unmade road, mixed in with about 200 army trucks, the fumes and dust were choking, so much for clean mountain air. Tomorrow we go for the highest pass in the world. I have taken hundreds of photo, but I know they will not do Justice to the the things we have seen, tasted, felt, the exhilaration, the fear, the whole thing. Tired now, maybe more tomorrow.

e mails from the journey 05/08/09

Sent: Wednesday, 5 August, 2009 12:53:56 AM
Subject: The Journey

The sun is shining, snow on the Mountains, donkeys and cows in the street, and today we are just chilling out in Leh.

Yesterday we rode the highest motorable pass in the world, the Kardong Pass at 18,380 feet. The guys at Triumph were right, I ran out of breath before the Triumph did, in fact the Tiger ran sweetly all the way. We have not had trouble with altitude sickness because we have taken several days to reach this altitude, but I was very short of breath and quite dizzy by the time we got to the top. Most of the single track road is tarmac, but the last bit is fairly rough, so it was a case of standing on the pegs, giving the rear suspension a better chance to do its job, and able to steer with knees and and bars, so there was a bit of exertion. And with sheer drops and water cascading trough ruts it was quite exciting!

Yesterday we also changed our tyres for the Continental TK's which are knobbly tyres suited for off road. We took the wheels off and a local tyre dealer replaced them on a modern tyre changer, problem was the electricity failed and we had to hang around for a couple of hours. ( power is off now in Leh, but this internet cafe has a genny going). The Metzler Tourtechs that CMS fitted for me have worked really well over the last 6,000 miles, over some really rough terrain. It will be interesting how the Continentals will behave.

Yes, we have covered 6,079 miles on this trip so far. And as for problems. The strong winds on the Iran / Pakistan border blew Tonys bike off the stand and broke the fastenings for his top box and broke an indicator. We made repairs with glue and Duc tape. Tony dropped his bike at waking pace twice when he was ill. He lost his phone on the Italy /Greece ferry and his sleeping bag some where in Pakistan, I dropped the Tiger at slow speed taking a short cut between two roads, loose sand caught me out, no damage done. My Deet anti mosquito spray leaked in my toilet bag and melted in plastic / nylon and coated my inhalers, tablets, soap etc in a black sticky mess, and also damaged my new tank bag. On the Iran / Pakistan border where we slept at the Customs Post, as I pushed my Tiger closer to where we would sleep, I had a sever pain in my right arm, in the bicep. Later when I looked, the hole muscle had dropped 2 inches closer to the elbow. No bruising, so could not be torn, and its still like it now. Very very painful, especially when on the rough roads. Tony had problems with the fuel pump, but yesterday it performed OK. I've had two insects bites on my arm which itch like hell.

As for the Triumph Tiger. The best modification I made was fitting a Hagon rear shock 50mm lower, enabling me to get both feet on the ground. The Scott Oiler (rear chain) has worked well, I have not needed to adjust the chain in 6,000 miles. The Panniers I fitted work well, are secure and hold a large amount of kit. I was worried about the amount of overhang, but I can squeeze through gaps I thought were impossible. As for the Tiger engine, what a sweet motor, pulls from really low revs, has never stalled even on the steepest climbs on the roughest roads, ( tracks), never over heated, misfired, or failed to start on the first push of the starter button. What has really surprised me is the way the suspension has coped, hardly ever bottoming out even on the rocky, stony / small boulders and deep rutted tracks. I was also worried about smashing my sump, but with careful steering and careful use of the throttle I have had no problems so far.

In Pakistan , we rode through three deserts, The Sandy Desert, The Kachhi Desert and the Cholistan Desert . We rode through mountains over the Bolan Pass and Valley, with the railway line adjacent, like something from the North West Frontier. We rode past vast dried out salt lakes, Some of the armed escorts we had were the Elite Police Commando Unit, Anti Terrorist and Close Protection Squads, the most professional police units we came across.

The route through Pakistan was from the border at Taftan, where we slept at the Customs, to Nushki where we slept in the Police Compound, to Quetta , where we stayed in a hotel, where we met a Pakistani gentleman who knew Exeter and Plymouth , and whose best friend was Mayor of Dudley! ! From there we went to Jacobabad where we met the State Security guys, then to Sukkur , Bahawalpur and Multan where we stayed the night in the Mangol Hotel. We then rode to the border at Wagha, where we watch the flag ceremony and stayed in a hotel. ( Before you think we are lightweights for not camping, the terrain we have traveled through is not camping country, (there are no campsites), both for security and health, we need a wash up after the heat of the day. And for 3 quid a night for a twin room, and simple food at a pound each, its not worth the trouble of putting up the tent). Even here in Ley, a room in a good clean hotel is only 8quid a night sharing a room.

In India the countryside changed, more fertile, rice fields and other produce.

We visited the Golden Temple in Amritsar , then over the mountains where monkeys ran beside us on the road and shared our fruit, to Palhankot. This is in Kashmir , the Jewel of India. Every where there where Amy and Police patrols, sweeping the roadside for mines, checking culvers for explosive devices and stopping local traffic. We stayed in a hotel near Kathua and next morning left early, only to find the next pass over the mountains was closed overnight and not due to open until 09.00 am due to Pakistani Army infiltration and Kashmir Separatist activity. Ore papers where checked before we were allowed to proceed. But everywhere the Army Patrols and the Police were friendly, and shouted greetings and waved. We managed to bypass Jammu , a major city. The large towns and cities were a nightmare of dust, traffic fumes, and absolute traffic chaos, but when ever we were not sure of the way- hardly any signposts in use- when we asked, people were helpful to the extreme, jumping on a motorbike or in a car and guiding us through the town, and never wanting to accept anything but our thanks and the opportunity to speak to us. We went to Srinagar , a beautiful city with a huge lake with house boats on it, I visited the Tourist Office to check the passes were not closed for security reasons, and went to a bank to change some traveler’s cheques, then we started the climb into the high Himalayas . The narrow single lane road soon became rougher and we started to climb higher, but all the time columns of army trucks and civilian truck on hire to the army were going each way. The dust and exhaust fumes were extreme. We came to a section with perhaps 50 trucks held up, we managed to pass them, at times with just a couple of feet from sheer drops until we got to the head of the queue. A mud slide which came up to our discs blocked the road, some trucks got through, and we followed in their tracks, I nearly slid off, but just held it, Tony ploughed without too much trouble. We climbed up to 11,000 ft, hairpin bends of rough stone and shale, small boulders and ruts, stuck behind trucks, with trucks behind us. If we stopped for a moment, the trucks behind became impatient, not wanting to burn out their clutches and brakes. At one point Tony stalled, I didn’t realize and carried on. When I stopped a truck driver indicated he was in trouble, so I started to walk back down, but Tony soon appeared and rode up to my bike. Steam was coming from his radiator but we pessed on to the summit where we stopped for a rest and let the bikes cool down. Then I realized I was not wearing my helmet. I had taken it off to walk back down to Tony and forgot to pick it up. There were two solders perched on a rock, and by protracted sign language I got them to radio to other units until they found my helmet and gave it to the next driver coming up the pass. So I got my helmet back. We pressed on, and the valley ahead became black with rain clouds, and I mean black! We stopped and put our water proofs on, but as we pressed on again, the sky started to clear and only a light storm hit us which then turned to hail. We were then stopped at an army check point and had to produce our documents. It was becoming dark but luckily we came to a small village with a guest house. This village, Dras, is the second coldest place in the world, in winter, after Siberia , with a recorded minus 61C. But it wasn’t cold that night, just bloody noisy with lorries, dogs and the local mad mullah doing his 05.00 am singing. We pressed on the next day with was when Tony had his engine problems. We passed through Kahgil, was told we could get petrol 3 to 6 km further on, but took a wrong turning and proceeded up a different valley, the road getting rougher the further we went. We stopped in a small village and asked for petrol they asked where we were going and when we said Leh, they pointed the way back we had come. Tony’s KTM over heated again, and we had to refill his radiator from a stream, and leak out air in the system. He limped back to Kargill, where we found petrol, and then carried on. Every two miles or so, the KTM would start missing, lose power and come to a halt. It was getting dark, we pressed on, bouncing over the rough tracks until we came to Mulbech, where we stayed two days and (hopefully) fixed the KTM. Time will tell.

So, the internet has crashed, I have saved this on Word and will have to come back later to put in a mail. Thanks again to every one who has sent me a mail. Tomorrow we leave Leh, maybe heading for Nepal .

Best wishes and regards,
John Groves.
The Desert Traveller aboard the Triumph Tiger 955i

e mails from the journey 08/08/09

Sent: Saturday, 8 August, 2009 9:58:37 AM
Subject: The Journey

This is going to be a quick one.
Had the most amazing 2 day trip through the mountains, with all the road conditions imaginable thrown at us, from brand new tarmac still wet to ploughing through 2 feet of mud for hundreds of yards, mud land slides following heavy rain the previous few days. The tyres we put on in Leh proved their worth, there is no way we could have got through. Before that we were on a desert plateau where the track disappeared into many truck wheels tracks, with sand 6 inches deep, we soon learnt that the only way to make progress is to clench the buttocks, twist the throttle and go for it. Both bikes dealt with both the sand and the mud. The moutain passes, ....the second highest at 17,000 ish and another at 16,000 ish, and the deep valleys, sheer drops, and all the time the lack of oxygen. After leaving Leh, Tony toppled off when his front wheel hit a rock on a hair pin bend, unsurfaced road and at the end of the day I dropped the Tiger after riding over three mounds of tarmac on the approach to a bridge at the end of the day., no damage to either bike. Next day I dropped it again when the front wheel hit a loose steel sheet on a rickety bridge, and then after agreeing to stop and check all futher bridges, Tony stopped by one, failed to get his foot securley on the ground, again unsurfaced track, and toppled, but he went right over the edge and his fall was broken by a bolder 6 feet below, or else the would have been in a raging torrent. Bikes and bodies all inhurt. We had to sleep in a Transit camp at 12,000ft, sharing a large tent with 3 Indian bikers, a guy on an Enfield from Austria and some others, Very cosy, Toilet a hole in the ground, and no washing facilities, but the rice and curried beans were ok. So it took 2 days from Leh to Manalia, about 350 miles, most of that standing on the pegs and riding unmade roads. Always short of breath. Hard riding. Low cloud with visability about 20 feet, trucks baring down on us, rocks, mud, pot holes, loose rock and that 2 foot deep mud.....and all the time just inches away from a drop of hundres of feet.
Today we rode about 170 miles, through the foothills and onto the plains, crazy roads and crazy sudial drivers. Saw 2 serious accidents, I'm sure both fatalities. The first real accidents so far. Also saw monkeys and an elephant working in a village we passed through. So this is the first of 3 days to reach Nepal. When we left Manalia we followed a valley next to a raging river. The vegitation was beautiful, flowers in gardens and flowering shrubs on the hill sides, every thing lush. The hills were almost jungle like. Monkey bounding out of the vegitaion onto the road.
We have a hotel, now we need to eat, another crazey day lined up for tomorrow.Tony's bike is holding up afer the repairs, and the Tiger purrs, growls and roars.

Best wishes and regards,
John Groves.
The Desert and Mountain Traveller aboard the Triumph Tiger 995i

e mails from the journey 09/08/09

Sent: Sunday, 9 August, 2009 7:01:23 AM
Subject: The Journey

Hey, there's an awful lot of people in India. And they are either all going the same way as us, or in the opposite direction, anyway they are all on the same road as us. The rest of India must be empty! What with the poor road surfaces, congestion, manic driving, lack of sign posting, and being completely surrounded every time we stop, we are struggling to get in 200 miles a day.
Last night we were in Chandigarh, a town designed by British Engineers in the 60's / 70's. No street names, but all identified by 'sectors'. Our hotel was in sector was 22, and we ate in sector 17. We took a rickshaw, and the kid peddling charged us 200 Rupees. I had to change a note at the food stand to pay and the guy there said we should have been charged 20 rupees, and then went to beat the kid up and return our money. I managed to stop the beating, and we got our money back. Then another guy paid the kid 20 Rupees. The kid was waiting for us after we ate, and we let him take us back to the hotel, and paid him over the odds, 50 rupees, but he still made out he was hard done by! This town was the most modern we have yet seen, it being the capital of the Punjab. Part of the route today was through a forest, in places not much more than a dirt track, lots of monkeys, but not a tiger in sight. Beautiful vegetation, buffalo grazing in meadows, cattle egrets on their backs, myna birds by the hundreds, and thousands of butterflies, mainly white or yellow. Its been very hot and humid, we had a brief down pour, but by the time we got the waterproofs on, it had stopped and the roads were dry. We went through many small towns, stopping for cold mineral water or juice.We are always mobbed, many questions in broken English, always interested in us and the bikes. Never any hint of animosity. The older generation always telling us what the British had done for India, and how it fell to pieces when the British left. As one old gent said, 'no discipline any more'. We never told him it was the same in the UK now.
The bikes are running well, just a slight problem with the venting on the KTM, separate tanks which should balance themselves, but don't. Just means we refuel more often, as one tank remains full.
We are now in Haridwar, a small town on our route to Nepal. Had a walk around, it would appear not many Europeans come to this town. Typical town, friendly people, dirty streets, open sewers, smiling faces, busy workshops, small shops, fruit and veg street traders, grubby kids, beautifully dressed women. How do they keep their clothes so clean amongst all the mess? Motor cycle 'mechanics' using hammers with engine bits on the dirt floor, mangy dogs roaming the streets, and to add to all of this, two British 'Skanky' Bikers, well worn and well weathered, looking well travelled and just a bit grubby, despite the daily shower and washing of pants and socks.
Have to go and get the daily ration of rice and beans now. Next mail should be from Nepal.

Best wishes and regards,
John Groves.
The Desert and Mountain Traveller aboard the Triumph Tiger 995i

e mails from the journey 16/08/09

Sent: Sunday, 16 August, 2009 8:49:29 AM
Subject:

We are now in Delhi, after an incredible last few days. We headed for Nepal, which we had not really planned to do, but as the journey has gone so well we had the time. Near the border we came to a washed out bridge over a river abut 100 yids wide. The water was fast and about 2 feet deep, with muddy banks either side, and boulders and pebbles in the river. We unloaded all the kit and got some local men to carry it across. Tony went first and kept his feet down, with a couple of men pushing, but that made it difficult, so I just stood on the pegs ans gave it a hand full, and blasted across. It was tricky but we both made it. We got to the border at Repaid, just a couple of huts and a track made of pebbles from the river. The Indian side was OK. but we missed the Nepal huts and rode 30 km into Nepal without visas or passport check. I asked a local cop id we were in India or Nepal, he said Nepal, but he wrote a letter explaining our predicament which we presented at the customs and immigrations when we rode back. Nearly had an international incident on our hands. Then we met a French guy on a BMW 1200 who was about to do the same thing. We rode some miles with him and stayed at the same 'hotel', he had ridden through the 'Stans and China to reach India. Next ray we rode on until we reached Bardia National Park where we parted, he was ridding on to Kathmandu where his girl was flying in to, he had been on the road since April. The guy at the entrance said there was a good track to the Park Lodges, he never said we has to cross another river, which we did. There was no one else at the lodge, Jungle Cottage, we decided to stay a couple of nights, that night the fire flies ddanced then the monsoon struck, never seen a night like it. Next day we went on a foot safari all day, saw Rhino, elephant, crocs, civet cat, and loads of birds, the guide was great. We waited a couple of hours on the river bank for a Tiger, but it never shows up. We actually swam in the river where he croc and Rhino were. That night the heavens opened again, and next ray when we left we got the guide and his mate to help us cross the river, which had now become deeper. The river crossing was OK, but the bank the far side was water logged and with deep mud, we both came off but with no damage or injury. By now I had a chest infection, and following the river swim,an ear infection, but I am hoping the anti biotics my GP gave me will sort it. At all the borders we are asked about Swine Flu, and have to sign forms, the officials all wearing masks, I'm afraid if I cough at the wrong time I will be quarantined. The route out of Nepal was farcical, with me doing the paper work for them in Nepal, and them being clueless in India regarding the Carnet.Every day now we have the monsoon. Riding is difficult, is it a puddle, a pot hole or a wheel busting crater, the roads are awash. And having to wait at level crossings, train after train. Still the dogs, buffloe, cows, goats, people just wandering out in front of us, 200 miles a day is the best we can do.
More tomorow.

Best wishes and regards,
John Groves.
The Desert and Mountain Traveller aboard the Triumph Tiger 995i

e mails from the journey 17/08/09

Sent: Monday, 17 August, 2009 10:06:57 PM
Subject: The Journey

Aha! New Delhi! The streets are full of: cows and cow shit, rubbish and puddles, pot holes and mud, street vender's of every imaginable item, food stalls, flies, cow shit, hooded crows, drug peddlers, broken sewer covers, cow shit, but all smiling faces around us, no hassle, but I am concerned about one thing. Young girls with babies keep coming up to Tony, asking for their latest maintenance payment. I think that's what they are asking. A couple have come up to me, but I point out the colour of my hair and my complexion, and just point to Tony. I must say the kids do look a bit like him, dishevelled and a small bald spot. Nu ff said?
We have met up with the Indian guy, Lilli Sing, who hires out Royal En field Bullets to Tourists, and who is arranging to ship our bikes back to the UK. It took about 5 hours just to fill in the forms and information on his computer, kept crashing and he was slow. Really a 30 min job. e then took the bikes to the packers to measure up. e will have to take the front wheels out and the screens off. Today we are going back to Lalli's shop to sign off the contract and customs documents. Tomorrow is a 'free day' then Thursday we are going to observe the packing, Friday the flight home.
We keep getting lost riding to Lallis then back to the hotel, but every one is helpful, except the cops who don't even know where they are themselves, and have to ask locals.
Coming into Delhi, we passed the highest rubbish dump on earth, I think bigger than Mount Everest, with thousands of Hooded Crows and Black Kites wheeling in the sky and scavenging the dump. Well, just a bit different than sea gulls I suppose.
One guy who showed us the way back to the hotel has a collection of old bikes and he has invited us to his place today. Yesterday, in the crowed streets a rickshaw scraped the side of the pannier leaving a scratch, unbelievable that after all the terrain we have endured, over 10,000km travelled, I get damage at our destination in the last couple of days. To be honest, we both expected to return with wrecked bikes, not believing we would not have a least a few moving crashes.
My anti bio tics have run out, I still have a chest infection and the ear hurts, but not too bad. Swine Flu, the papers say is out of control, 300 new cases a day.... out of how many billion people??? Now if you want to know about out of control, watch us crossing a river!
More later, perhaps.

Best wishes and regards,
John Groves.
The Desert and Mountain Traveller aboard the Triumph Tiger 995i

e mails from the journey 20/21/09

Sent: Thursday, 20 August, 2009 8:00:47 PM
Subject: The Journey..almost over

08.30, Friday morning, waiting for Taxi to take us to Delhi International Airport.
Yesterday was like watching paint dry, or in our case, watching the bikes getting crated. They were an hour late calling at the hotel to guide us through the cows and crazy traffic to their yard. Not the way I would have crated a bike, but they are the 'experts'. Next time we see the bikes will be in Southampton...don't know when
Thursday was a free day..we did a bit of the tourist trail. National Museum, Red Fort and had a ride through town. over and under, on the brand new Metro. Some transport system, Jap and Korean input, truly 21st Cent Rapid Mass Transport System. No cows on the line, though!
So the end of our six week trip, so long a Richard Branson has his planes sorted. Lots of thoughts in my head, but one thing that has struck me is that although many people live on or below the poverty line, eking out a living on the land or workshops, the vast majority working long hours and working hard, they are cheerful and have a positive attitude. I think I will find it hard going back to work and putting up with the whingers and moaners, the people who want more for less and reckon they got a raw deal. We travelled the real India, to places that tourists rarely go, not seeing just the beggars who make a living off tourists, but the people on the land, the small villages, people of the desert and the mountain. So thank you Pakistan and India and Nepal for showing me who you really are.

Best wishes and regards,
John Groves.
The Desert and Mountain Traveller aboard the Triumph Tiger 955i

1994 France and Italy : The Stella Alpina Rally

In the summer of 1994, Maeve and I travelled through the French and Italian Alps on the 1000cc Moto Guzzi California, 'camping savage', on our annual trip to Europe.
On the road decending from Col de Cayrolle, we met Andy from Dudley on his 750cc Triumph Jubliee. Andy had taken off on his own after reading of a rally in the Italian Alps, called the Stella Alpina Rally. This was the first time Andy had been to Europe on his bike. That night we camped 'wild' in a meadow high above Guillestere, near Col de Vars, drinking coffe and drinking brandy, watching the stars and talking 'bikes'. In the morning we crossed the border into Itally and headed for the rally, not reliasing the rally was for off road bikes, and took place over an unmade road. At first the road was tarmac, then it became pot holed, then the pot holes disapeared and the road was unsurfaced. The first stage through the vally was fairly easy, but as we climbed higher it became very difficult. With the weight of the fully loaded bikes and with Maeve on the back of the Guzzi it became unmanageable, so we left all the luggage and Maeve besides the track and we headed on solo. Navigating some of the hair pin bends was a matter of point, a little gas, and bounce my way round, sliding on the loose rocks and shale, out of control, shouting " out the ducking way" as the trial riders on their mainly small off road bikes hurtled towards me. I became parted from Andy and after a couple more hours reached a group of riders parked up to see the track dissapear into a hugh snow drift. Looking ahead I could see the track snake further up the mountain.
I was soon surounded by other riders who expressed their amassment (by tapping their heads) that I had made the journey on a Guzzi California. When Andy did not appear, and after I had collected my 'Badge of Acievment' I headed back down the mountain. Not easy with the Guzzi linked brakes. Every time I touched the foot brake, the front locked up, and the front wheel skidded, slithered and slid, causing some concern as on the haip pin bends, there were sheer drops for a yard or two! I eventually met up with Andy on a sharp bend. His after market oil filter, at the front of his engine, had been holed by a rock, he had lost all his oil and the engine had siezed. An English couple from Bristol, on a BMW GS stopped and helped as Andy free wheeled down hill, and they then towed him when we reached the level valley floor. We joined up with Maeve, some 5 hours after leaving her sat on a pannier besides the track. The BMW rider then rode off to find a new filter and oil, returning a couple of hours later with a filter that fitted a Citron car and oil. We soon fixed the Triumph, and after many kicks to get the oil round the engine, Andy switched on the ignition, gave a hefty kick.....and the Triumph fired up! We rode off the mountain in the dark and camped 'wild' in the pine trees near the French / Italian border at Col de l' Echelle. The following day, we parted in the village of Nevache, Andy heading for home, and Maeve and I continuing towards Mont Blanc, via Brianson, Col du Lauret and Col du Galibier.
Andy made it home, and met up with us in Devon a couple of times the following years.

THE STELLA ALPINA The Alpine Star.
Stella Alpina Motociclistica Internazionale.
This rally is over the Colle Sommeller, at 3009m (9872ft) and is allegedly the highest ridable pass in Europe. I was told the rally started in the 1930's, when the road was tarmaced, and riders raced to the top, (the badge shows a racing bike) and then a local padre held a service for the riders. All I know for sure was that it was difficult on the Guzzi, and I suffered for several years from a twisted knee when I dropped the Guzzi on a bend when a trail bike with a side chair and I met head to head and there was no room to pass. He stopped, I fell!
But what a sense of achievment.

The Desert Traveller

About Me

The Journey has only just Started and will never End.

Where it began.

Journey to Morocco 2006

Trip to Mauritania 2007

2008 Solo To The Gambia

Valencia Moto GP 2008

Wednesday, 16 September 2009

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My Bikes

Velo 500 and Matchless 350

Triumph Trident T160

Moto Guzzi T3 California

Moto Guzzi 1000 California

Triumph Trophy 900

Triumph Sprint RS

The Western Sahara 2007

The Kachhi Desert, Pakistan, 2009

Planning the 2009 Trip to India.

Visas and Stuff

Slide Show

Quack, Quack, Quack.

New additions to my fleet

Modifications to the Tiger

Tiger 955i

Triumph Tiger 955i

Rear end view, thats all your gonna see!

The General

General Buller

e mails from the journey 17/07/09

e mails from the journey 20/07/09

e mails from the journey 22/07/09

Pakistan, India and Nepal

Waiting for a change of guards, again.

Another Police checkpoint.

Iranian desert Landscape

Taking a liquid roadside break. The policeman with the AK47 is part of our armed guard.

Tony crashed out in police compound.

Some of these police officers took Tony to Hospital the night before

Noshki Police Station

Railway line snaking through the desert.

Following a police truck with our armed guards

Waiting for a change of guards at a police station.

Another change of guards

Barrister and Businessman

We talk to the road construction engineers while we wait for a change of guards.

Trucks struggle on the gradient through the Bolan Pass

Railway Line through the Bolan Pass

Two of our armed guards who were on a 125cc Honda.

Jacobadad.

Tony checks out the local talent.

The Victoria Tower, Jacobabad, Pakistan

Stall outside the Hotel in Jacobabad.

Chief of Police and armed police guards

The Flag Lowering ceremony at Wagha

Pakistan side of the Wagha Border

Indian side of the Wagha Border

Indian side of the border.

Indian Soldier poses with his Royal Enfield.

Royal Enfield Bullet rider introduced himself.

The Golden Temple, Amritsar, India.

Temple Guards.

Heads covered , we visit the Golden Temple in Amritsar.

Monkey shares our lunch, well, a banana.

Local Medicine Shop

Pharmacy in small town.

Parked up for the night.

Road Closed by the Indian Army

Early morning start heading for Sringar.

Tiger looking cool in the morning sunlight.

Cricket Bat Factory

Anyone for cricket?

Shaping the cricket bats.

House Boats on the Lake at Srinagar.

Populated valley in the foot hills.

Start climbing gently towards the mountains..

First real view of the Himalayan Mountains.

Well, at least it's heading the same way.